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RODENTS: Rodent-Proof Construction |
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Importance
of Rodent-Proof Construction
Rats and mice cause
serious damage to all kinds of structures if they are
allowed access to them. Damage by rodents has been
documented in homes, apartments, hotels, office
complexes, retail businesses, manufacturing facilities,
food processing and warehouse facilities, public utility
operations (especially power and electronic media
operations), farm and feed storage buildings, and other
structures.
In urban settings, rodents
most often cause damage to older, inner-city buildings
and utilities in poor repair. New housing developments
may experience commensal rodent problems, but problems
are more noticeable in neighborhoods 10 to 12 years of
age or older. Ornamental plantings, accumulation of
refuse, woodpiles, and other such sources of harborage
and food are more quickly invaded and occupied by
rodents when adjacent to an established rodent habitat.
Many types of land, air,
and water transportation systems and their
infrastructure also face serious rodent infestation
problems. Infestations are of particular concern in the
transportation of foodstuffs, feed, and other
agricultural products. Commensal rodents consume and
contaminate human and livestock feed. One rat can eat
about 1/2 pound (227 g) of feed per week, and will
contaminate and waste perhaps 10 times that amount.
Rodents destroy
insulation, electrical wiring, plumbing, and other
structural components of buildings (Fig. 1). Insulation
damage alone may amount to a loss of several thousand
dollars in only a few years. Energy loss from damaged
buildings results in added annual costs. Rodent-induced
fires from damaged electrical wiring or nest building in
electrical panels cause loss of property and threaten
human safety.
Rodents also serve as
vectors or reservoirs of a variety of diseases, such as
salmonellosis, leptospirosis, and murine typhus, that
are transmittable to humans. Additionally, they may be
sources of swine dysentery, brucellosis, sarcoptic
mange, and tuberculosis, all of which affect livestock
or pets.
The most effective means
of limiting rodent damage is rodent-proof construction.
New buildings should be designed and built to prevent
rodent entry. Rodent-proofing is a good investment.
Designing and constructing a rodent-proof building is
less expensive than adding rodent-proofing later.
Nevertheless, poor maintenance or management practices,
such as leaving entry doors and unscreened windows open,
will make the best constructed building susceptible to
rodent entry. Techniques discussed here apply both to
new construction and to the modification of existing
structures.
Junctures where utilities
(pipes, cables) enter structures require special
consideration in preventing rodent entry. Some
earthquake design criteria require open spaces in
important joints and other support areas, to allow for
limited movement of tall structures. These present a
real challenge in the design of rodent-proof
construction.
Physical
Abilities of Rats and Mice
To prevent rodent entry,
their capabilities must be understood. For example, both
rats and mice can:
-
run along or climb
electrical wires, pipes, fences, poles, ropes,
cables, vines, shrubs, and trees to gain entry to a
building;
-
climb almost any rough
vertical surface, such as wood, brick, concrete,
weathered sheet metal, and many plastic products;
-
crawl horizontally
along or through pipes, augers, conveyors, conduit,
and underground utility and communications lines;
-
gnaw through a wide
variety of materials, including lead and aluminum
sheeting, window screens, wood, rubber, vinyl,
fiberglass, plastic, and low-quality concrete or
concrete block.
-
Fig. 2. Rat traveling
along an electric wire.
-
Rats can:
-
crawl through or under
any opening higher or wider than 1/2 inch (1.3 cm)
(Fig 3);
-
climb the outside of
vertical pipes and conduits up to 3 inches (7.6 cm)
in diameter; climb the outside of larger pipes
attached to buildings by bracing themselves between
the wall and the pipe; climb the inside of vertical
pipes, wall voids, or earthquake safety seams and
joints between 1 1/2 and 4 inches (3.8 and 10.2 cm)
in diameter;
-
jump from a flat
surface up to 36 inches (91 cm) vertically and as
far as 48 inches horizontally;
-
drop 50 feet (15 m)
without being seriously injured;
-
burrow straight down
into the ground for at least 36 inches (91 cm);
-
reach as high or wide
as 13 inches (33 cm);
-
swim as far as 1/2
mile (800 m) in open water, dive through water traps
in plumbing, and travel in sewer lines against a
substantial water current. In areas where high rat
populations exist, it is common for both roof rats
and Norway rats to enter buildings through toilets
and uncovered drains.
-
House mice can:
-
enter openings larger
than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm);
-
jump as high as 18
inches (46 cm) from a floor onto an elevated
surface;
-
travel considerable
distances crawling upside-down along screen wire;
-
survive and reproduce
at a temperature of 24oF (-4oC) if adequate food and
nesting material are available.
Survey for
Entry Points
When inspecting sites for
potential rodent entry points, look for rub marks,
droppings, tracks, gnawing, or other rodent signs.
Special attention should be paid to areas discussed
under Common Rodent Entry Points (below). Keep in
mind the physical abilities and behavior of the
particular rodents, especially their tendency to seek
shelter behind, under, or in appliances, sinks cabinets,
drawers, stored goods, wall voids, false ceilings, and
other undisturbed areas.
To conduct a thorough
survey, inspectors will need an inspection form and
paper for noting and illustrating items needing
attention; a good flashlight; a mirror (to see under and
behind objects); and screwdrivers and other small hand
tools to remove interior and exterior vent grills,
appliance base plates, and service doors to attics,
crawl spaces, and utility cabinets. A tape measure is
usually necessary when preparing a plan and estimating
materials needed for repair. A small dustpan, broom, and
some lime, flour, or similar powdered material are
useful in preparing an area for a follow-up observation
of fresh tracks. A camera can be of great value,
especially when trying to design a project after leaving
the site, or when seeking assistance from someone
unfamiliar with the site. A simple item to use when
measuring gaps under doors or around pipes, screens, or
vents is a common wooden pencil or ball-point pen
(usually 3/16 to 3/8 inch [0.5 to 1.0 cm] in diameter) —
large enough for mouse entry.
Common
Rodent Entry Points
Many structures have
inherently similar rodent entry areas due to similarity
in design (particularly entry and service areas),
utility sources, and building equipment. For the sake of
simplicity, we have attempted to group similar
structures and settings.
Commercial Office
Buildings, Hotels, Hospitals, and Retail Stores.
Commercial buildings are constructed from types of
materials and design methods that vary greatly in the
degree of susceptibility to rodent infestation (for
example, metal and concrete versus wood). Most
structures eventually become less rodentproof due to
deterioration, alteration, or repair. Heating, air
conditioning, plumbing, electrical service, and fire
sprinklers provide some of the most commonly encountered
rodent entry points.
Neoprene seals,
spray-in-place foam, and similar products commonly used
to close openings are not rodentproof. Even in new
buildings, utility pipes, electrical conduit (often at
meters or circuit breaker panels), water and gas lines,
and communication cables generally have large openings
that permit entry of mice and rats. Once rodents have
entered walls, they generally have ready access to much
of a building via holes for utility pipes and wires in
the framing, and via overhead suspended ceilings or
other types of construction adjacent to utility
enclosures.
Specific problem areas
include poorly sealed heating and air conditioning
ducts; roof and wall vents installed without strong,
well-attached hardware cloth screening; roof and wall
joints and edges without properly installed metal
flashing; and doors hung unevenly or too high, or lined
with unprotected soft rubber weather stripping. Refuse
and food handling areas are likely to have the greatest
rodent pressure. In older buildings, cracks in concrete
slabs, brick and concrete block walls, or worn or
damaged drain covers allow rodent entry. Air and
elevator shafts and laundry chutes also merit close
inspection.
Food Handling
Facilities and Warehouses. Businesses in which food
is stored or handled are especially prone to rodent
invasion. Good sanitation practices are essential.
Keeping food well-sealed is very important and more
difficult than might initially appear. Scraps of food
can often be found in floor drains, under food
preparation equipment and stored products, and around
refuse and entry areas. Outside doors are often left
ajar or fit poorly due to heavy use, physical damage, or
improper installation. Space under equipment (mixers,
stoves, counters, or refrigerators) should allow easy
cleaning and inspection, or be closed off completely
with rodent-proof materials.
Mice and rats are
sometimes found using freezer and refrigerator
compressor areas for harborage and water (from
condensation on cold coils). Mice are often found in the
insulated walls of large coolers. Look closely at
corners and edges of metal, or other material covering
the insulation, for rodent openings. Drains should have
adequate screens or grates to prevent rodent entry. Food
disposal, refuse, and damaged goods areas are often
located close to food handling or storage areas and are
not sealed from rodents. Areas near loading docks should
be closely inspected for cracks, broken screens, damaged
doors, and uneven floors near doorways. Interior loading
docks served by rail cars are difficult to close due to
the tracks, but rubber door guards made to fit the
tracks are available and will deter rodent entry.
Rodent-infested goods in
food warehouses commonly include cereals, flour, and
baking mixes; waxed carton drinks; dry pet foods; dried
fruits and nuts; fresh produce; paper goods; charcoal
briquets, and damaged goods. Products in these
categories should be kept in open, easily inspected
areas, not in dark corners. Regular and routine removal
of such nonsalable or nonusable products should be
standard practice to enhance cleanliness and safety and
to reduce harborage.
Apartments and
Houses. Utility entry points include underground
electrical and communication trunk lines, and exhaust
vents for clothes dryers. Power lines have always been a
favorite route of travel for commensal rodents,
especially roof rats. Check all roof joints for
tightness and presence of flashing, if rats and mice
have access to the roof via wire, pipes, plants, or
rough-textured walls. Also check roof and sewer vents
for adequate screening and sealing, including presence
of tight roof jacks (Fig. 6).
Chimneys should be checked
for properly installed flashing or for missing mortar.
Rats occasionally enter buildings through toilet traps
in inner-city areas with rat-infested sewer systems. In
such cases, tracks and water may be found on the rim of
toilet bowls. Both roof and Norway rats have been known
to enter structures via the sewage system. This route
usually occurs in older (20 years or more) established
areas with poorly maintained sewer systems. Mice often
enter under entry doors, through holes beside water
pipes and electrical conduit, and through the cold air
return ducts on forced air furnaces, especially those
located in outside cabinets or garages, and underneath
mobile homes.
Mice and rats often find
easy access to garage areas through open doors or under
and beside poor-fitting garage doors. Once in the
garage, they may gain entry into the main structure
along electrical lines, pipes, poorly sealed fire wall
sheathing, or around furnace ducts, hot water heaters,
or laundry drains.
If rodents are able to
reach the attic, they may travel from room to room or
unit to unit through openings for pipes, ducts, and
wiring. Attics provide excellent harborage in winter,
spring, and fall, but are often too hot during summer.
Common attics, basements, or raised foundations in
condominiums and apartments are a frequent source of
rodent infestation.
Once a rodent gets into
the attic, inside entry to the fireplace void is often
easy because of poorly fitted sheeting or metal collars.
Entry to the inside of the fireplace is made from the
damper area or cool air and warm air returns on units
that provide for air circulation around the firebox.
When the fireplace is in use, the heat will prevent
rodent entry. If the outside cannot be sealed, glass
doors that seal the burn area are recommended to prevent
rodent entry throughout the year. Cracked and missing
mortar, or poorly fitted siding or plaster, may allow
entry through brick or rock fireplaces.
Tile or shake shingle
roofs allow rodent entry if the roof is not solidly
sheeted with plywood or similar material and the tile is
not properly fitted and grouted. Vents without tightly
fitted double roof jacks also facilitate access to
rodents.
Another source of entry to
residences, and a source of harborage for rats and mice,
are fireplaces—especially the newer preconstructed zero
clearance sheet metal units that eliminate the need for
concrete mortar and brick. A hollow space is left in the
siding and the fireplace support framing between the
outside wall and the fireplace. Rats and mice can enter
this area from the outside via the roof joint, between
the siding and decorative wood corner trim, around gas
pipes, or outside wood storage doors.
Once a rodent gets into
the attic, inside entry to the fireplace void is often
easy because of poorly fitted sheeting or metal collars.
Entry to the inside of the fireplace is made from the
damper area or cool air and warm air returns on units
that provide for air circulation around the firebox.
When the fireplace is in use, the heat will prevent
rodent entry. If the outside cannot be sealed, glass
doors that seal the burn area are recommended to prevent
rodent entry throughout the year. Cracked and missing
mortar, or poorly fitted siding or plaster, may allow
entry through brick or rock fireplaces. Tile or shake
shingle roofs allow rodent entry if the roof is not
solidly sheeted with plywood or similar material and the
tile is not properly fitted and grouted. Vents without
tightly fitted double roof jacks also facilitate access
to rodents.
Gaps or flaws in
foundations and slabs, or where the wall framing meets
the foundation or slab floor, may provide large enough
openings for rodent entry. Older buildings commonly have
cracked foundations, cracked plaster or mortar, warped
siding, or broken and torn vent screens. Wood or
masonite siding is especially vulnerable to warping and
cracking near corners and around the base of the
building. Old, unused holes where utilities formerly
entered the structure are also common, especially in
raised foundation and basement homes. Window screens are
often left off or fit poorly in older, low-cost
apartments and homes, allowing rodent entry from
exterior utility lines and pipes running along exterior
walls. Runways going to window ledges are often observed
on stucco and brick walls and in ornamental plantings
next to buildings.
Manufacturing Plants
and Farm Buildings. Overhead or underground
pipes, conveyor belts, and augers commonly found in farm
buildings and factories are often used as entry points
and routes into and between buildings. Such equipment,
particularly if abandoned, may provide harborage as well
as food. Rodent-proofing these areas is not easy if the
equipment is still in use.
Utility entry points must
be constantly monitored for excess openings caused by
equipment repair, installation, or modification. Outside
walls and doors must also be monitored for damage from
equipment or livestock and for damage or wear from heavy
use. If work patterns require doors to be open during
hours of darkness, when rodent entry is most likely,
rodent barriers may be needed, such as a solid fence or
wall or a metal wing wall between the foundation and
adjacent loading dock areas.
Buildings constructed with
ribbed or corrugated metal siding allow rodent entry if
the bottoms of the siding panels do not rest flat on a
solid surface or they are not otherwise closed off.
Sections of prefabricated buildings should be assembled
tightly, and gaps at joints should be covered with metal
flashing. Often, however, they are left open, especially
at corners and at the foundation/slab interface.
Roll-up or overhead doors
often provide easy entry for rodents, birds, and bats.
With the door closed, check for gaps along the sides,
bottom, and top of the door (Fig. 8). A gap at the top
is common. Rats and mice can easily climb up the space
between the door and the inner wall or track to the top,
where they gain entry and climb down the inside of the
track. Gaps between the track and the wall are also
common, especially if the track has been installed on
brick walls. Door bottoms may be bent or damaged,
leaving gaps along the floor. Uneven floors due to frost
heaves may leave gaps when the door is closed.
Screens on windows, crawl
spaces, and vents are often damaged in farm and
industrial buildings. Check these carefully for needed
repair or replacement.
One of the greatest
challenges in farm buildings is preventing feed and seed
from being a food source for rodents. Good sanitation
practices are very important. Clean up spilled feed, and
store feed and seed in rodent-proof buildings and
containers. Keep sacked materials off the floor when
possible. This facilitates for inspection and reduces
harborage.
Excluding rodents from
livestock and poultry operations is another challenge
due to livestock and manure management and various
animal husbandry practices. Nevertheless,
rodent-proofing is important and can be accomplished.
Many of the entry points already identified for other
types of structures apply to farm buildings. Additional
problem areas include insulated walls used for
harborage, feed bins, and portable feed bunks. These are
but a few of the challenges discussed in more depth
under Exclusion Methods (below).
Exclusion Methods:
Existing Structures
and Equipment
Holes and Openings.
By gnawing, rats can gain entry through any opening
greater than 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) across, and mice through
any opening larger than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). The paired
front (incisor) teeth of rats and mice curve slightly
inward. This inward curve makes it difficult for them to
gnaw into a flat, hard surface. When given a rough
surface or an edge to bite into, however, they can
quickly gnaw into most materials. To prevent rodent
entry, seal all such holes with durable materials. Steel
wool, copper gauze (Stuf-it® brand) or screen wire
packed tightly into openings is a good temporary plug.
For long-term or permanent repair, mix a quick-drying
patching plaster or anchoring such as Fixall® into a wad
of Stuf-it® before pushing the material into the hole,
and smooth over the outside. If steel wool is used, rust
stains are likely to result. Holes 3 inches (8 cm) or
more in diameter should be covered or backed with
1/4-inch (0.6-cm) woven/welded hardware cloth prior to
filling with a good patching compound (see
recommendations under Foundations and Floors). Another
backing material available is Strong PatchTM (D. P.
Wagner Mfg. Inc.), a 6 x 6-inch (15 x 15-cm) sheet metal
patch to cover holes up to 5 x 5 inches (11 x 11 cm). It
has a self-adhesive backing and a mesh on the surface
for better adhesion of the patching compound or other
texture.
To close larger openings
or protect other areas subject to gnawing, use materials
such as those listed in Table 1. Hardware cloth, if not
woven, breaks easily. The woven/welded hardware cloth
maintains its shape when cut to fit around pipes or
other objects. Hardware cloth used to cover gaps and
holes can be filled with foam caulk, Fix-all®,
Quick-Fix®, or other fast-drying interior patching
compounds. When used on the exterior, concrete mortar,
plaster, or Concrete Patch® can be used to provide
longerterm rodent-proofing (Fig. 10). These are just a
few of the many products available.
Close openings around
augers, pipes, and electric cables where they enter
structures with Portland cement mortar, Concrete Patch®,
masonry, or metal collars (Fig. 11). Even a small
unprotected opening can be an invitation to rodents.
The ribs and corrugations
in metal siding can be blocked with metal or mortar.
Rubber or vinyl weather stops are quickly gnawed
through. Design or modify buildings with metal siding by
butting siding panels or sheets against solid materials
(metal flashing or concrete) so the openings are not
present (Fig. 12). Caution: letting metal siding rest
directly against concrete can lead to accelerated
rusting and corrosion. The siding should be installed so
that openings are no greater than 1/8 inch (0.3 cm)
wide. If the siding is installed with the ribs
horizontal, the ends must still be sealed or the bottom
of the decorative corner trim flashed and closed.
Table 1. Recommended
materials for rodent-proofing.
Concrete: Minimum
thickness of 2 inches (5.1cm) if reinforced, or 3 3/4
inches (9.5 cm) if not reinforced.
Galvanized sheet metal: 24 gauge or heavier for wall or
pipe barriers; 22 gauge or heavier for kick plates or
door edging. Perforated or expanded sheet metal grills
should be 14 gauge. Brick: 3 3/4 inches (9.5 cm) thick
with joints filled with mortar.
Hardware cloth (wire mesh): Woven, 19-gauge, 1/2- x
1/2-inch (1.3- x 1.3-cm) mesh to exclude rats; 24-gauge,
1/4- x 1/4-inch (0.6- x 0.6-cm) mesh to exclude mice.
Aluminum: 22 gauge for frames and flashing; 18 gauge for
kick plates and guards.
Vents and Windows.
Use only metal window screening materials where windows
or doors are accessible to rodents. Avoid unnecessary
ledges outside windows. When necessary, screen
ventilation openings and windows with woven/welded
galvanized hardware cloth. Such screening is critical in
commercial and farm buildings and where high rodent
pressures in residential areas are found. For large
openings or where the screen may be subject to abuse,
add crossbars to support the hardware cloth. If the
opening is an access route, install the screen on a
hinged frame. All vents and duct openings for heating
and air conditioning should be screened or raised and/or
guarded with an excluder device to prevent rodent entry.
Residential cold air return grills can easily be
mouse-proofed by placing 1/4-inch (0.6-cm) hardware
cloth behind the grill where it is not unsightly. In
some applications, power vents can be covered with
hinged metal plates (louvered) that open with air flow
and close when fans are off. These louvers are only
effective if they fit tightly and the sides are recessed
to prevent rodents from pushing through them. Caution:
Hardware cloth less than 1/2 x 1/2 inch (1.3 x 1.3 cm)
significantly reduces air flow. In buildings where
ventilation is already marginally adequate or
inadequate, such further restrictions may be
unacceptable. In some locations, small mesh screens can
become clogged with dust or freeze over. In such
situations, the use of 1/2 x 1/2-inch (1.3 x 1.3-cm)
hardware cloth is a reasonable compromise between
ventilation requirements and rodent control.
Exterior Doors.
Doors should fit tightly, the distance between the
bottom of the door and the threshold not exceeding 1/4
inch (0.6 cm). In some instances, it is possible to
build up the threshold rather than modify the door.
Metal thresholds can be
fastened to floors. Steel pipes embedded in a concrete
floor make good rodent-proof thresholds and allow doors
to swing free when open. Pipe thresholds are especially
useful where doorways are used by wheeled pallet jacks,
heavy equipment, or livestock. Install flashing or a
metal channel on the lower edge of doors, particularly
softwood doors (Fig. 13); a plastic door boot has been
successfully used where the door receives low use and
the edges are not easily accessible to rodent gnawing.
Properly applied flashing extends to within 1/8 inch
(0.3 cm) of the edge of the door at the sides and
bottom. Close the gap at the top or sides of roll-up
doors with conveyor belt material shaped to fit into the
side channel frames and mounted on the top door jamb.
Bent bottom rails on doors should be straightened.
Concrete damage due to inadequate reinforcement or poor
placement practices should be repaired or the concrete
replaced. A metal or pipe threshold is sometimes
preferable or required.
Mechanical door-closing
devices save time and help overcome human negligence.
Equip doorways used for ventilation with rodent-proof
screen doors, or if the door surface is too slick for
rodents to climb, modify the existing door so the upper
half can be left open for ventilation. Always use a
heavy kick plate and solid frame on screen doors in
commercial and agricultural buildings. Light-framed
screen doors easily get bent out of shape, allowing
rodent entry.
Foundations and Floors.
Gaps or flaws along building exteriors where the wall
framing or siding meets the foundation provide easy
entry for rodents. Such openings can be prevented by
well-formed and finished concrete work and installation
of tight wall framing and siding, or installing metal
screed-type flashing between the siding and the
foundation. Use of rodent-proof exterior surface
materials such as concrete, plaster, or metal sheeting
is also effective if properly installed so that all ribs
or corrugations are closed. Rodents can gain entry into
buildings with piers or shallow foundation walls by
burrowing beneath the floor or foundation. To prevent
rat entry by this route, extend foundation walls below
ground at least 36 inches (91 cm). This also reduces
damage from frost. A horizontal footing extension also
may be added to deflect burrowing rodents away from the
foundation (Fig. 14). Avoid the use of slab-on grade
construction techniques for agricultural buildings or
bulk bin pads. The possible savings in initial
construction may be quickly offset by the costs of
rodent damage and control measures.
Rats exert more effort to
enter buildings where feed is available. They frequently
seek shelter under concrete floors and slabs, where they
burrow to find protection. Ideally, install floors,
slabs, and sidewalks with deep footings, or with curtain
walls of concrete or 1/4-inch (0.6-cm) mesh wire (Fig.
15). The choice between concrete and wire mesh depends
on the expected life of the structure. Though wire mesh
costs considerably less than concrete, its usefulness
generally lasts only 5 to 10 years.
Repair cracks in
foundations and floors with concrete or masonry grout.
There are numerous quick-setting types of products, such
as Fix-all® or Quick-Fix®, which are for interior use,
and Concrete Patch®, Rockite®, or Pour Stone® for
interior or exterior use (previously illustrated in
figure 10). The four last-mentioned products are
specifically designed for repairs and have quick
setting, good adhesion, and nonshrinking properties
which make them ideal for exclusion work. Each, however,
is made for a specific application: Pour Stone® and
Rockite® are designed to be easily poured into cracks in
floors or into holes to anchor bolts or machinery, and
set hard in 15 minutes. Concrete Patch® is a mortartype
material for repairing masonry surfaces and has a vinyl
polymer to increase adhesion. It sets in 2 hours and is
hard after 12 hours. Quick-Fix® is a durable patching
plaster for inside use on plaster, drywall, or wood
surfaces. Drying time may be within 30 minutes,
depending on thickness. With all of these types of
repairs, the use of reinforcement with hardware cloth is
usually needed on vertical or overhead horizontal
surfaces to add strength and provide the necessary
backing. Rodents can claw and gnaw at concrete and
Portland cement until it is fully cured, so the use of
1/2-inch (1.3- cm) hardware cloth laid in the top 1/4
inch (0.6 cm) of the repair area may be necessary if
rats are currently using the repair area as an entry
point. Otherwise, provide an effective temporary
rodent-proof protective overlay until the concrete is
fully cured. Caution: Metal products placed within 1
inch (2.5 cm) of a concrete surface will oxidize and
corrode and may discolor the concrete.
If rats have gained access
to crawl spaces under building floors, prevent them from
getting into walls by using such modifications as
illustrated in figure 16.
Maintaining a clean,
3-foot-wide (1-m) weed-free area around building
foundations, concrete slabs, and footings often
discourages rodents from burrowing as well as eliminates
a food source and attractive harborage. Where erosion of
bare soil is likely, this buffer can be maintained by
regular, close mowing of vegetation or by installing
heavy gravel. To discourage burrowing, install a strip
of 1-inch-diameter (2.5-cm) or larger gravel laid in a
band at least 2 feet (60 cm) wide and 1/2 foot (15 cm)
deep.
Interior
Rodent-Proofing. When rats or mice are present in a
building, attention must be given to interior as well as
exterior rodent-proofing to remove all sources of
shelter. A combination of actions is required in such
instances, as no single effort is likely to yield the
desired result.
Concrete floors are
preferred to wooden floors. An attempt should be made to
seal off rodents. Use traps to remove the rodents, or
place poison bait packets through openings in the floor
or wall and then seal the openings with galvanized metal
or hardware cloth and patching plaster as previously
discussed. Promptly treat new openings as they are
found. In occupied buildings, always trap the rodents
before sealing interior walls to avoid odors, stains,
and an influx of insects that feed on decaying rodent
carcasses.
Eliminate rodent hiding
places beneath and behind equipment. Feeders in
livestock facilities should have flat bottoms and be
designed and installed so that rodents cannot find
shelter beneath or behind them. Give special attention
to storage rooms, closets, feed storage, or other areas
where construction techniques may allow rodents access
to walls, floor spaces, or attics. Stacks of wood and
other stored items should be 18 inches (46 cm) above the
floor and 18 to 24 inches (46 to 61 cm) away from walls
to allow for proper cleaning and inspection. Warehouse
stock should always be stacked off the floor on pallets
and away from walls, and it should be rotated often to
prevent development of infestations in undisturbed
areas.
Rodents often gnaw into
wall materials at corners or where joints in
construction materials provide an edge. Poor
construction techniques may allow rodents to gain access
through materials that are otherwise considered
rodent-proof.
Perimeter insulation is a
necessary part of energy-efficient construction. Placing
insulation on the exterior of foundation walls subjects
it to mechanical damage as well as infestation and
destruction by rodents. To prevent damage to perimeter
insulation, use sandwich wall construction in which the
insulation is placed within the concrete. Insulation
placed on the outside of a foundation wall requires
protective- covering material. Suitable materials
include cement board, high density fiberglass-reinforced
plastics, troweled-on coatings such as Block Bond®, or
Surewall®. In such situations, metal flashing should be
used to prevent the potential for entry routes for
subterranean termites. Several companies now manufacture
special coatings for exterior perimeter insulation.
Examples include DuraWallTM and SecurewallTM.
Extend protective cover
materials at least 36 inches (91 cm) below finished
grade. If the protective layer ends less than 36 inches
(91 cm) below grade, add a horizontal ledge that extends
outward at least 1 foot (30 cm). All top edges and
corners must also be protected with a close-fitting
heavy-gauge metal flashing (Fig. 17).
Drains and Pipes.
Both rats and mice use drainage pipes or sewage systems
as routes to enter buildings. Equip floor drains with
metal grates held firmly in place. Grate openings should
not exceed 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). Maintain 1/2-inch (1.3-cm)
hardware cloth over sewer roof vents in rat-infested
areas. If the sewer system is known to be rat-infested,
a “Rat Guard” one way flap valve may be placed in
toilets (Fig. 18). Sewer laterals should be checked for
openings that could allow rodent entry. Smoke producing
leak detectors are often used by agencies checking sewer
lines for leaks or openings. If openings are detected,
replace the pipe or wrap the pipe break with 1/4-inch
(0.6-cm) hardware cloth and use concrete patching
material to seal the area. Rain gutter downspouts are
often used by rats to gain access to roofs. It may be
possible to screen over openings at the base of
downspouts with 1/2-inch (0.6-cm) hardware cloth or a
grate, but this will require continued maintenance to
remove accumulated debris, particularly where leaves and
small sticks are washed from roofs into the gutter
system. Flap valves have been used here too—swinging
shut except when water is flowing. Openings to floor or
driveway drains should have covers. Gutter and other
drain covers must be kept clean of debris to prevent
water backup.
Manure management systems
in livestock facilities may be of a type that
periodically drains manure or water from the building to
a lagoon or other storage area. In such cases, a
“floating” metal cover or check valve-style closure at
the open end of the discharge pipe, with a hinge at its
upper edge, can be effective. The hinge must operate
easily so that the cover will open when water or manure
flows out but will fall back into place when the flow
stops in a manner similar to a tide gate used on drains
in coastal areas. The potential for such covers to
freeze shut, however, can be a drawback. A better method
is to extend discharge pipes far enough over the bank or
into the lagoon to prevent rodents from jumping or
crawling into the open end. Install rodent shields to
prevent rodents from gaining access (Fig. 19). Always
cap pump-out ports when under-building manure storages
are not in use. Left open, they allow rodents easy
entry.
Physical
Barriers/Guards. To prevent rodents from climbing or
traveling along a particular route, install guards made
of sheet metal or similar materials (Table 1). Guards
must be wide enough and positioned to keep rodents from
reaching their outer margins by climbing or jumping.
Dock areas may need guards to keep rodents from jumping
or climbing from foundations, pipes, steps, or rough
exterior wall surfaces, and from infesting trucks or
rail cars transporting goods.
A sheet metal band
attached to a wall will prevent rodents from climbing.
Rodent guards should be at least 14 inches (36 cm) but
preferably 18 inches (46 cm) wide (Fig. 20). Inside
buildings, such guards can prevent rats and mice from
climbing at corners. Used in combination with hardware
cloth or other suitable material, they can make a
building essentially rodent-proof. These modifications
are essential on pumping plants, water treatment
facilities, power stations, and communications
facilities. They have also been used to make corn cribs,
barns, and other older buildings in current use rat- and
mouse-proof.
Guards on walls should be
at least 36 inches (91 cm) above ground or floor level.
Flat guards have been used to prevent rodents from
traveling along horizontal or vertical pipes or electric
wires (Fig. 21). Cones or discs act as rodent guards on
suspended cables, rain gutter downspouts, conduit,
ropes, augers, or pipes (Fig. 22). With some ingenuity,
you can design rodent guards to fit any given situation.
Freehanging guards are easily damaged. Circular guards
must extend out 18 inches (46 cm) around the line they
guard. They are constructed of 24- gauge metal and
anchored in place by one or more arms on the side
opposite to that accessible to rats. Cone-shaped
circular guards prevent rats from climbing vertical
pipes, pilings, and trees. Shields or wire guards made
of 1/4-inch (0.6-cm) wire mesh are useful in excluding
rodents from the interior of conveyor belts, underground
power and communications conduit, feed augers, fan
housings, and similar openings.
Food Handling and
Storage Areas. Even when all of the holes are
plugged, rodents seem to find a way into food storage
and handling areas. Sometimes rodents come in with
supplies, or they run in through open doors or windows.
Often, one or more openings remain undetected. These
hidden holes are often below sinks, behind equipment, in
false or suspended ceilings, and behind or under
cupboards. Once in an environment having all the basic
needs, rodents quickly establish viable populations. The
solution is to eliminate harborage and exclude rodents
from food and water sources inside the building.
All equipment such as
large refrigerators, freezers, counters, dishwashers,
and sanitizers should be raised and easily movable,
enabling cleaning underneath and behind them. Insulated
walls and closed areas should be tightly closed off to
avoid use as harborage. Openings are commonly seen in
new stainless-steel work counters in supports under the
work surface, or in areas provided for drains. Drains
should be easy to clean but should have rodent-proof
covers.
Store food products in
rodent-proof enclosures or on shelving at least 18
inches (46 cm), but preferably 30 inches (76 cm) or
more, above the floor. Tubular supports (legs) for
shelving should be a minimum of 4 inches (10 cm) in
diameter to prevent rats from shinnying up from the
floor.
Keep all damaged goods and
returns, as well as refuse, in a separate rodent-proof
room. Loading docks should be very tightly
rodent-proofed and only open during daylight hours. All
outside doors should be self-closing, have heavy
kickplates, and be checked periodically for excessive
gaps. In warehouses and storage situations, centralize
highly susceptible foodstuffs into areas that can be
securely rodent-proofed and closely monitored. These
areas should also have rodent bait stations and
multiple-capture mouse traps permanently installed
around the perimeter.
Livestock Feed Bunks
and Bins. Rats typically burrow and nest under feed
bunks that are placed directly on the ground or near
ground level. Properly designed concrete bunks that sit
tightly on a concrete base eliminate rodent habitat.
Though cattle traffic may discourage burrowing under the
concrete slab, a foundation may be needed to prevent
burrowing around the sides of the slab that do not
receive heavy cattle use. Concrete slabs on which feed
bins are placed should have foundations extending 36
inches (91 cm) into the soil at the outer edge to
prevent rats from burrowing under the slab. Installing
heavy gravel and maintaining a clean, weed-free zone
around the perimeter of the slab will also discourage
rat burrowing and permit easier detection of rat
activity.
Feed and Refuse Storage.
Livestock or pet feed and edible refuse attract rodents
and are a common food source. Always store these
materials in metal containers with tight-fitting lids.
Food is often available to rodents around homes,
kennels, and poultry and livestock feed storage areas
because feed is kept in plastic or wood storage bins or
hoppers. These storage containers are frequently open at
the top, or may be gnawed through the sides. Check
nonmetal hoppers frequently for holes and, when
necessary, repair with sheet metal. Avoid the use of
self-feeders for pets. Feed pets only as much as they
will consume at one time and only during daylight hours.
Proper storage and
disposal of household garbage and dead animals is a very
important part of rat control. Bulk dumpsters are often
left with the tops open, or the tops are badly bent,
allowing rodent entry. Constant vigilance and calls to
the refuse company should correct these situations. Seal
bulk trash compactors from rodents. Spilled refuse and
juices from crushed contents often create rodent
problems under and behind compactors and bulk dumpsters.
Clean these areas often and install rodent screening in
container drains.
Rodent-Proof Building Design Considerations
The degree of a
structure’s susceptibility to rodent infestation depends
on several considerations that the architect, engineer,
builder, and end-user should keep foremost in mind prior
to and during construction. All structures, but
particularly those intended for human occupancy, should
be built to be as rodent-proof as possible.
One consideration is the
current and historical level of rodent problems in the
general area of the construction site. A project that is
in an inner-city redevelopment area with a known history
of rodent problems warrants more attention to rodent
exclusion than a project in a new urban fringe area with
little or no history of problems. Rodent control should
be considered during the preconstruction and
construction phases. Infestations at these times are
common and sometimes even include larger animals such as
skunks and opossums. Contracts should require that
contractors maintain a clean and debris-free site.
If the area is known to
have heavy rat and/or mouse problems, use exterior
surface materials that have a hard, smooth surface on at
least the lower levels that will be subject to contact
with the ground, ornamental plantings, fences, and other
potential areas of rodent harborage. A viable
alternative is to utilize a smooth-surfaced decorative
band 14 to 18 inches (35 to 46 cm) wide around the
structure above the rodent access height, in order to
prevent rodents from climbing up exterior walls. Tightly
rodent-proof sewer, electrical, communication, water,
and natural gas services, as well as exterior doors and
windows. Loading docks should have exclusion devices,
automatic door-closing devices, and good construction
materials that preclude rodent climbing and entry.
Stairs to the dock area should have a tight-fitting
personnel door far enough from the dock that rodents
cannot jump from stairs to the dock. Dock bumper pads
should be high enough (30 to 36 inches; [76 to 92 cm])
to avoid being used as steps by rodents.
Another consideration is
the building’s interior design and intended use. Office
buildings with tight-fitting interior doors, tightly
sealed wall voids and utility access areas, and no food
or water sources are less attractive to rodents than
food handling facilities, apartments, hospitals, and
warehouses. Pallets commonly used in warehouses provide
good harborage for rodents and should be rotated
regularly. Coolers and other food storage areas should
be centrally located and, if possible, in sealed rooms,
separate from other warehouse goods. This confines
rodent exclusion to a small area and provides for better
observation if problems arise. Even the clutter of
machinery, parts, and nonfood stored goods may attract
rodents as harborage if food and water are nearby.
Containers for refuse
disposal, including bulk dumpsters, should have tight
lids. They should be kept clean and tightly sealed.
Earthquake safety joints
can provide a route from the basement to the top floor
of a building. Use 1/4-inch (0.6-cm) woven/welded
hardware cloth between floors in these joints to
effectively stop rodent travel. Urethane foam caulk or
sheet metal screws have been used to hold the hardware
cloth in place without interfering with the purpose of
the safety joints. Install adjustable metal collars
around utility pipes or other types of openings. They
are available through building supply stores or can be
easily cut from 24- gauge (or heavier) galvanized sheet
metal. Double walls can best be protected near the
foundation or floor area with galvanized sheet metal,
hardware cloth, concrete, or other methods, as
previously discussed. Use heavy (24-gauge or better)
galvanized flashing, called “screed,” between the siding
and foundation to close any openings created by warped
wood or Masonite, board and batt construction, stucco,
or corrugated metal siding. Installation of fireplaces,
especially zero clearance sheet metal types, poses a
challenge when sealing the wall void created around and
above the firebox to the roof. This area must be solidly
sheeted with sheet rock or dry wall, and a metal collar
called a draft stop must be used at the ceiling and roof
lines. When tightly fitted, it serves to prevent rodent
movement. It is also imperative that good, tight Z-bar
and roof-to-wall pan flashing is properly installed
around the outside of the chimney. A metal cap and
secure heavy mesh screen should be installed to prevent
bird or small mammal entry (Fig. 23). There are many
types of metal flashing. The Z-bar flashing is installed
so that it is under the felt paper and then bends
outward to overlap the roof-to-wall flashing that rests
against the roof and wall in an L shape (Fig. 24).
Roofs and eaves often have
openings large enough for raccoons and pigeons, as well
as for small rodents to enter. Many of these problems in
single-family residences and apartments seem to occur
where roof lines change angles or elevations, leaving an
area under the eaves that is hard to fit with siding.
Problems are especially common where the proper
roof-to-wall and Z-bar flashing are not tightly cut and
installed during initial construction. Shingle or tile
roofs are sometimes a problem when they butt up against
a wall or around roof vents and at roof edges. Tile and
shingles are less of a problem if solid sheathing
underlies the roofing material and adjacent walls have
properly installed metal flashing. Tile on roofs must be
well placed to avoid gaps and the ends should all be
sealed with pre-shaped metal (commonly called “bird
stop,” Fig. 25) or tile fillers. All other gaps should
be filled with concrete grout. Vents must have openings
of 1/4 x 1/4 inch (0.6 x 0.6 cm) or less to prevent
house mouse entry (Fig. 26). There are many different
types of vents for specialized placement. They include
gable vents, exhaust vents, roof vents, foundation
vents, and many others. The building industry has had a
problem getting good-quality vents with strong 1/4 inch
galvanized hardware cloth properly fastened in place.
Many manufacturers are using non-galvanized hardware
cloth or light screen wire, and others are simply
shaping the wire into place with no fastening method
used or using light spot-welding spaced too far apart,
allowing the screen to be pushed away from the housing
of the vent.
Openings larger than 1/4
inch x 1/4 inch (0.6 x 0.6 cm) can be used if air flow
is inhibited, but the vent should be located to prevent
exposure to rodents. This can easily be accomplished on
roofs with smooth sheet metal raised 40 inches (1 m) or
higher, constructed in a manner to avoid rough edge ribs
or other surfaces that rodents can climb. Place vents on
the sides of buildings at least 40 inches (1 m) above
the ground level, fences, or shrubs. Use a smooth
surface around the vent if the wall material has a rough
texture.
Poorly installed roof
jacks are a common entry point for rodents. Tile and
shake shingle roofs require the use of double jacks, one
rigid and the other often soft or flexible. The solid
jack is installed over one layer of roofing felt and the
sheeting or other substrate, and an overlapping piece of
felt is then layered over the jack. The second jack is
placed between the layers of roofing (tile or shingles,
Fig. 27). When rigid metal is used for the upper
(second) jack, gaps left between the tile and the metal
should be grouted to prevent rodent or bird entry or
nesting.
Permanent Bait/Census
Stations. Another method that can be used to prevent
the build-up of rodent populations is the installation
of permanent rodent “service access areas” around the
exterior of buildings. These cupboard- type areas can be
built at ground level into walls or foundations near
loading docks, trash areas, near utility service panels,
corners, or rear alleys. The stations should be large
enough to contain an automatic multiple-capture mouse
trap (Ketch- AllTM or Tin CatTM) and a bait station
containing toxic baits. Placebo baits can be used to
monitor rodent population pressure. The panel door
should have tamper-resistant screws, bolts, or locks and
have two 2 1/2- x 2 1/2-inch (6.4- x 6.4-cm) openings at
ground level to allow entry by rats and mice. For
additional information on the control of commensal
rodents, see the chapters House Mice, Norway Rats, and
Roof Rats.
Acknowledgments
Control of domestic rats
and mice. Publ. Health Serv. US Dep. Health, Educ.
Welfare, Pub. No. (CDC) 77-841. 47 pp.
Editors
Scott E. Hygnstrom
Robert M. Timm
Gary E. Larson
PREVENTION AND CONTROL OF
WILDLIFE DAMAGE — 1994
Cooperative Extension
Division
Institute of Agriculture
and Natural Resources
University of Nebraska -
Lincoln
United States Department
of Agriculture
Animal and Plant Health
Inspection Service
Animal Damage Control
Great Plains Agricultural
Council
Wildlife Committee
11/17/2006
Special
thanks to:
Clemson University
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